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Messages - buellersdayoff
okay cool. well 1.275v didnt crash aida64 and the lower voltage meant average CPU temp of 66 degrees. running cinebench now the will give Intel burn test a runSeems good, I normally use asus realbench (uses h264 encode) and prime95 with avx disabled (v26.6 disabled by default, other versions need to manually) for about 2 to 4 hours
I've been trying to follow and learn something from this thread but it's now just turned into gobble-de-gook.Lol, several years as an automotive mechanic and still a lot of the car set up stuff in sims is the same for me, particularly when any adjustment made is not helpful at all. That was quite a few years ago now and this pc stuff is still fresh lol
I've been slowly decreasing the voltage to see how low I van get without aida64 stress test blue screening. 1.28v was all good but 1.27v blue screened after 10 mins. trying 1.275v now and if that's all good will try some further stress tests.The bclk (base clock, default 100) will fluctuate a bit that's normal, don't worry about that
It will fluctuate a bit since the sensors only read @ 0.016v if it's more than that it's most likely the llc setting which allows vcore to drop off under heavier loads, to offset the vdroop put llc to around 6 and it should stay close to what you set
Cool... 1.3v? Use hwinfo64 to check. Stress testing should be a bit longer, couple hours for stability testing but ok for preliminary checks. Which fan headers you use don't really matter, only that if you don't connect one to cpu header the bios may flag no fan reading. Make sure though that pwm fans are connected to 4pin pwm headers and pwm is enabled in bios for those headers, some default to dc voltage control. Asus bios usually has a fan expert thing that runs your fans up then down to find min and max speeds. I think most can do 5ghz so you should be good, I tried 5.1 a couple weeks ago but I think it's gonna need quit a bit more vcore to be fully stable, so I've left it 5.
If you have a Microshaft account sign into it and it might sort out the activation, you can always remove the account if you don't want it on the pc
Might need to go through the Microsoft support system phone or chat, I've had to do that with one system before, just say you replaced the old mobo which died or whatever. Or try adding a Microsoft account to your login, I haven't had any problems since doing thatI think when you upgrade to 10, win 10 allocates a new key, so if the 8 key don't work try a key finder, none of this will be necessary if it doesn't ask you to reactivate but for me it did with a mobo upgrade
Bummer, it happens sometimes, had a brand new asus mobo not boot once beforejust put the old psu back in and we're all up and running. brand new psu that lasted less than an hour... have put in a return claim on pccgLucky system components weren't taken out with it, what's the psu?
just put the old psu back in and we're all up and running. brand new psu that lasted less than an hour... have put in a return claim on pccgLucky system components weren't taken out with it, what's the psu?
Ouch all right...what is the new psu, and if you fully connect the old one does the system work or has it taken the mobo with it?it was all going so well... got new drivers etc installed ran tomb raider benchmark on highest settings and average 80fps which is double what my old system did then boom it turned off. wont turn back on again. light on the mobo come on but wont power up... took my old psu and connected it to the mobo only it tried to boot. new psu plugged back in and nothing.. think the new psu just died after about 30 mins useOuch. My condolences. Would you share what PSU was it?
« on: December 07, 2018, 07:55:36 PM »
Would you like to be my engineer, I'll pay you with season championship points lol... I don't mind it most of the time, but again, sometimes it's a pita and fun to just drive. Thanks for sharing set upsHaving to be engineer as well as driver can sometimes take the fun out of it a little, particularly when feels like you're not getting any where with it no matter what you do lolI disagree entirely!
I think when you upgrade to 10, win 10 allocates a new key, so if the 8 key don't work try a key finder, none of this will be necessary if it doesn't ask you to reactivate but for me it did with a mobo upgrade
I've used jelly bean key finder before and works ok https://www.techadvisor.co.uk/how-to/windows/find-windows-10-product-key-3632749/Usually with a mobo swap windows will need to be reactivated, so just punch the code again or if you've logged in to a Microshaft account it should be ok.do you have your windows key or have it tied to a Microshaft account?
Usually with a mobo swap windows will need to be reactivated, so just punch the code again or if you've logged in to a Microshaft account it should be ok.do you have your windows key or have it tied to a Microshaft account?