[Jacob]

Cheers guys. The leagues sound fun indeed 
I bought a G27 and a GTeye spring upgrade for it also. Basically the wheel will no longer stay calibrated while driving. It starts up fine, calibrates but ends up a little bit rotated to the left, like 5 degrees or so. When I'm in game and I fight some strong FFB or go for a bit of oppo-lock, even just turning, the wheel "slips" from its calibrated center. Then I'm driving around like a bloody Nascar driver with my wheel cocked left half a turn just to stay on track and it gets progressively worse. I'm pretty sure running that "anti FFB clipping" app for AC and driving with 100% gain in game for a day or two was too much for it to handle. But really it should be able to handle max FFB all day everyday or that's some crappy product design.
I looked it up, apparently its pretty common, which isn't a good sign really. It's most likely a loose screw on the optical sensor chip causing it to read incorrectly, or the sensor wheel is slipping on the motor drive shaft. It has started to sound pretty cranky too. Any of you G27ers had this problem?
I'm certain I could fix it if it's just that but I'm scared to open it up and find a bunch of floating debree and the insides too far gone. It's got a 3 year warranty. I just heard back from the ebay seller saying I need to contact logitech, ship it to them and they will determine if it's a valid claim. Also a warning about if they find it has been tampered with or void the warranty I have to pay to ship it back to me.
Not sure what to do as a) I have already void the warranty by mounting my pedals without the case, also GTeye (I'm sure I can put them back together properly though, I just don't want to risk them finding that and that being the reason I can't get a replacement) and b) I don't want to wait like 3 weeks 
Suggestions? I'm leaning towards the diy fix because I really want to get driving again. Sorry for the essay 

[Gratulin]

I would send back just the wheel since that is all that is broken.

[Jacob]

I would send back just the wheel since that is all that is broken.

Don't think that's going to happen. Here's what they said.
 
Please include with it :
 
•   All accessories
•   A copy of the invoice if you have it
•       The number supplied by Logitech
•   Description of the Fault
•   A copy of this email.
•   Current Address and Contact Phone Number during the day

Once received we will process the item for warranty .

I mean really... Their product is obviously deigned poorly and they are making me go out of my way to fix their problem. No mention of postage costs covered and it's not even guaranteed to be replaced. They also didn't answer my question about the estimated time frame for the whole process. I'm going to give fixing it a go, worst comes to worst I will just send it back if I can't anyway.

[Bruce]

Hi Jacob
yep I had the problem, mine was well out of warranty, dismantled it and tightened the offending screw and all fixed.

but yours is in warranty.

[Bird]

I've split this out of the racer intro, it does not belong.

But let me tell you; I've had a DoA fanatec wheel, and they so much did not replace it, that I had to wait looong weeks for the repairs, I had to fight for a refund on the postage, and the job was really shoddy, one screw fell out of the wheel when I got it back.

At least it was friggen working.   
That's fanatec "support" for you.

At least with logitech you got a chance of replacement...

[Jacob]

Thanks for moving the thread now I can update on the situation. Put some tunes on and spent the last 30 minutes dismantling the wheel. Those wire clips are a pain in the bum to remove, but I was super careful and to my suprise I didn't break anything. Anyway I found the problem straight up after popping the cover from the optical encoder system.
Yaaaay ....
 
 

Gotta love the quality of mass made Chinese plastic. The crack allows it to spin freely. And to think how many replacements I could get over 3 years If they all broke within 2 months. I used to think Logitech were a quality-ish brand but not so much anymore.

The crack goes right to the edge, I'm hoping I can get it to close up and super glue it to the shaft. I'm worried if the crack doesn't completely close it will mess up the sensor. I may have to invest in a brass one, someone machines them for about $30. At least it won't break again if I do get one. Reckon Logitech would pay for a replacement? It would be cheaper than the cost to post the whole thing back and forth anyway.
Wish me luck, I'm hoping to be back up and running by tomorrow at the latest now.

[Guybrush Threepwood]

I'd call Logitech (if you can even do that) and explain the deal, maybe send them the photos.  The last thing you want to do is void the warranty and then stuff up your whole wheel.

[Jacob]

I'd call Logitech (if you can even do that) and explain the deal, maybe send them the photos.  The last thing you want to do is void the warranty and then stuff up your whole wheel.

Yeah I called them earlier today. Seems their call centre is in America, not that it matters. They gave me a support ticket number to give to the ebay seller (is a registered Logitech retailer) who said to send everything back. I can't show photos or it just proves I've voided my warranty and I feel telling them I have found the problem probably would too. Right now I'm just trying to figure out the cheapest, quickest and easiest way to solve this.
1) Either I send it all back, they replace (hopefully) the wheel and all good. Until it breaks again... A lot of people reported this problem online. Maybe two weeks or less if I'm lucky and probably ~$50 to ship it back to them.
2) Try to fix it to work for at least two weeks and order a brass replacement part. Install that, all good. Hope it works and costs me $40. Is most likely never going to fail again.
I'm not really confident on gluing it together again, it probably won't work and then my warranty is definitely down the drain. Decisions, decisions...

[marty]

Strange its been bulletproof for me but there are lemons everywhere and they may have gone for even cheaper parts and assembly since I got mine many years ago. Still overall with the guys I know that have older logi wheels they have done quite well maybe your just unlucky or they have got worse recently.

[Jacob]

Very odd and frustrating indeed. I am not rough or use excessive force with my wheel and take good care of it when storing and setting up. Not that any of that could have caused the problem anyway. I'm still a bit bewildered how a piece with no load on it other than itself managed to crack. Its not just the disk that's cracked either, it continues all the way through the shaft collar, completely split in two.
Anyway I've decided to ship it back to them. Gonna suck waiting but I figure its the best plan of action.

[marty]

Good luck with that, the odd thing is I dont treat it very nice and give it lots of abuse. It has never failed on me, had some issues with pedals spiking but thats easy fixed with a clean up. I kind of wanted it to die to buy a thrustmaster or fanatec but it just wouldnt die and so I didnt have a proper excuse. I have tried the other wheels and they clearly are better but not so much better in actual use for me to replace a perfectly working wheel. I have been keeping an eye on the others but the wheels I do want are still at pretty silly prices which even I cant really justify atm but if I have a broken wheel may aswell replace it with a very good one. 

[Jacob]

Sounds like you need to give it away hint hint I'm sure if you cranked the strength in the profiler to 200% or so something would probably give in soon.
I just finished putting it all back together, wiping away my fingerprints from the insides of it as I went like someone cleaning up DNA after dismantling something more biological. Gave it a quick test it and everything is working hurah. Except it still isn't  I had a stupid glimmer of hope it would somehow miraculously fix itslef but alas. Off to the post office tomorrow hopefully

[Mopz]

Just noticed your awareness of the brass replacements

I have had to replace mine and its been bulletproof since, the wheel has felt much more responsive since (I put up with it for quite awhile tho i guess).

I tried the supa glue it lasted about a month, enough time to play whilst the new one was in transit.
Also the reason it cracks is the screws holding the black plastic sensor mount to the ffb motors get loose and the everything starts moving around. I grabbed some loctite and tightened any screws that were near the ffb motors.

http://www.cmlaserservice.com/page_g25_g27_optical_encoder_wheel.html

Took a little bit to get adjusted right, i think I finally got it working on about the 3rd attempt.

Good luck you will be pro at having that wheel apart in under 10mins soon!

PS If you do go down the brass encoder wheel, play the game for about 30mins before putting the case back on this would have saved me quite a bit of time or at least make sure it calibrates before reassembling.

[Jacob]

Thanks for the tips Mopz Don't you just hate it when you put something back together and realise you've got to take it apart again for something simple. When I was putting my pedals back in their case I realised I forgot to take the custom springs out, had to take it apart again. Lucky though as I hadn't put the wires in the right place and one of them got pinched in the case.

When I had the wheel apart I didn't notice any loose screws on the housing so I'm not sure if that was the cause. Maybe as it heats up and cools over and over it makes the plastic brittle and/or allows it to start slipping around? Dunno, but I have sent it off to get it replaced today. Hoping to get it back next week but not sure on how long it usually takes. If the brass replacement was cheaper I would have just grabbed that straight up but I don't really want to waste $40 for no reason. Although now I have to worry about it happening again in the future.

[Guybrush Threepwood]

I got a G27 a couple of years ago and haven't had any issues.  I'm sure your replacement will be fine and you were just unlucky with the first one.