Xtreme Gaming Network
Simulation Racing Leagues => Assetto Corsa => Australian Assetto Corsa League, Tuesday nights => Topic started by: Wally on January 07, 2016, 06:49:27 PM
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Car: Choose either the RUF RT12 R or the RUF RT12 R AWD.
Tracks:
Barbagallo (14 laps) [DOWNLOAD (http://simhqmotorsports.com/downloads/motorsports/assettocorsa/tracks/barbagallo-release-v1.2.rar) V1.2]
Brands Hatch GP (9 laps)
Zandvoort (8 laps)
Qualifying at 8:30pm Eastern DST. There'll be a qually session between all races.
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When does the practice server go up?
wink wink nudge nudge ;D
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When does the practice server go up?
wink wink nudge nudge ;D
Was up yesterday at Barbagallo, today at Brands, tomorrow will change to Zandvoort. Pretty sure it was named xgn, had a few on the pther day at Barbagallo too was quite fun. Didnt try them at Brands though so may keep that up tomorrow or is that today lol.
Here is the timing for the 3 tracks.
http://52.62.71.102:50041/lapstat?track=barbagallo&cars=ks_ruf_rt12r,ks_ruf_rt12r_awd&valid=1,2&date_from=&date_to=
http://52.62.71.102:50041/lapstat?track=ks_brands_hatch-gp&cars=ks_ruf_rt12r,ks_ruf_rt12r_awd&valid=1,2&date_from=&date_to=
http://52.62.71.102:50041/lapstat?track=ks_zandvoort&cars=ks_ruf_rt12r,ks_ruf_rt12r_awd&valid=1,2&date_from=&date_to=
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Thanks Marty. I reckon the AWD will be the quicker of the two.
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Feels like I need to push my break pedal through the floor to pull the AWD up...
Love the Porsche, but personally very tough to drive.
Thanks for already having server up too Marty ;D
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I found it a very easy car to overdrive, as it gathers a lot of speed. I got quicker by going slower :)
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I found it a very easy car to overdrive
Guess I just don't want to ever stop hearing the turbo whistle in my ear :P
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Thanks Marty. I reckon the AWD will be the quicker of the two.
I think the AWD is easier to drive but actual laptimes they arent far apart. The AWD has a big advantage out of slow corners and off the line. Into lobger medium to high speed corners the rwd getting looser on throttle is a little quicker.
Should be a good mix and for those struggling a bit more on throttle with the rwd theyay be better jumping in the awd.
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I prefer the RWD, it's a bit more of a challenge and can be a little more fun, however I haven't driven either of them extensively.
I'm going to try swapping my throttle and clutch pots over the weekend. If this doesn't solve my issues I'm afraid I'm going to have to put myself out of all racing indefinitely. Hopefully it does the trick though. :)
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Why would you get out of racing "indefinitely" pots can be replaced, surely, with new parts?
Have you tried the manufacturer?
If that won't work, have you tried to ID the pot, see if jaycar sells it? (or even ebay...)
Or even; have you tried to see if someone sells the same type of set - maybe even "broken" - for cheap parts?
Sorry I haven't followed your pedal saga too closely; give us more details (maybe in a separate thread!) and I'm sure we'll sort it out one way or another.
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Why would you get out of racing "indefinitely" pots can be replaced, surely, with new parts?
Have you tried the manufacturer?
If that won't work, have you tried to ID the pot, see if jaycar sells it? (or even ebay...)
Or even; have you tried to see if someone sells the same type of set - maybe even "broken" - for cheap parts?
Sorry I haven't followed your pedal saga too closely; give us more details (maybe in a separate thread!) and I'm sure we'll sort it out one way or another.
Thanks Bird. I've tried looking online for similar pot however there doesn't seem to be any that look the same. There was one internet site that used to sell them for G25's, but that is no longer operating. I haven't approached Logitech directly, but from the different forums I've read they will not supply parts as they cannot condone anyone tampering with the equipment.
I could buy a new set of pedals, I just can't justify it when I need to buy a whole new G27 for $300 just because of this little, but crippling issue.
I've looked into buying a separate second hand set of pedals from another manufacturer, but if I do this I need to buy new mounting plates for my wheel-stand which will cost quite a bit as they need to be shipped from Poland. I'm also not 100% comfortable on having different brand wheel+gears+pedals
I only say "indefinitely" and not "forever" as I'm sure to return, but I just don't know when. I may end up buying a whole new set of wheels and pedals. It just seems a shame as I was quite happy with my little G27. :)
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I've tried looking online for similar pot
Are you sure you are looking for the correct product
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Hm...going from here, it's a pretty average looking pot:
http://www.thesimshop.com/
(got there from here: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/g27-potentiometer.130692/)
Resistance 10.0KΩ
Power 0.5W, 1/2W
Rotation 300°
Package 23.83mm x 11.51mm
If the g27 is the same, you can probably walk into jaycar with the spec and buy one for a few bucks.
I'd recommend taking the potmeter out, and walking into jaycar for a matching one.
If all else fails, you can prolly pick a used one up on ebay, and have a few spare parts
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Logitech-G27-steering-wheel-and-pedals-rarely-used-with-original-packaging-/221985433538?hash=item33af5ce7c2:g:N0AAAOSwnipWanDE
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I've tried looking online for similar pot
Are you sure you are looking for the correct product
Yeah, I think so. I've looked up the specifications online and followed a few similar requests but have never found anything that looks like it will fit.
Yep, that's the website that no longer operates Bird. I've plugged those specs into ebay, web, etc. but can never find any pots that look similar to the G27 pot.
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Try here? (somewhat pre-filtered list - the rotation is not specified in degrees, but if you get a "one rotation" that should be close enough.
I don't think it's an issue, you just need to calibrate it.
http://au.element14.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?catalogId=15001&langId=43&storeId=10184&categoryId=800000002962&pageSize=25&showResults=true&aa=true&pf=110000308,110050479,110061076,110071516,110135389,110190129&min=110061076&max=110071516
Wait a sec....just check the rotation on those pots of yours. The g25 maybe completely different.
This place talks about a very weird pot with only 70deg rotation
http://forums.logitech.com/t5/Logitech-G-Controllers/only-Logitech-G27-Pedals/td-p/1138375
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I prefer the RWD, it's a bit more of a challenge and can be a little more fun, however I haven't driven either of them extensively.
I'm going to try swapping my throttle and clutch pots over the weekend. If this doesn't solve my issues I'm afraid I'm going to have to put myself out of all racing indefinitely. Hopefully it does the trick though. :)
I have fixed this problem twice in G25 pedals by flooding the pot with "Servisol electrical clean and lube" while actuating the pedal.
Available from Jaycar.
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Cleaners can work, pot cleaning can work indeed - unless the pot is beyond cleaning. If the surface is marred, it's done for.
But I think he has already tried cleaning.
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Yep, I've taken the pedals apart several times and flooded it with Lectra-Clean which is a contact cleaning spray for electrical devices.
I've also taken the pot completely apart and cleaned it and the components. Still no good though.
I guess if I switch the clutch and throttle pots and it's still an issue then I know it will be the wires or something more terminal.
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You could just re-assign the clutch to the throttle to test without taking everything apart?
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You could just re-assign the clutch to the throttle to test without taking everything apart?
Good Thinking Gratulin. Time to learn to drive left footed! ;D
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You could just re-assign the clutch to the throttle to test without taking everything apart?
I'm guessing GB wants to be able to drive around a bit and see how it holds up.
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You could just re-assign the clutch to the throttle to test without taking everything apart?
Good Thinking Gratulin. Time to learn to drive left footed! ;D
Nah, better cross your legs, mate! :D
But I really need to point out, that this won't test any of the components, really - only the already known clutch. (unless the state of the clutch is also a question) since the re-assingment is in software if I understand things correctly.
Re-wiring might do the trick, though. But I think it's probably not much of a saving in time.
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No. Once you test the clutch you can just swap it over. Then change the plate over if you want. No rewiring needed.
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Ah you can directly swap pedals?
I did not know the 27 was that advanced. Cool! It's like the Fanatec pedals, huh?
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Ah you can directly swap pedals?
I did not know the 27 was that advanced. Cool! It's like the Fanatec pedals, huh?
You takin' the piss LOL
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You could go a hal optical sensor if you're feeling particularly hardcore GB!! (but yeah a quick clutch swap sounds like a better first step!!)
http://www.mediafire.com/view/q49zm1r41b66f7s/G25_modification_for_pedals_v1.0.pdf
:P
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GB, what I don't understand is, isn't any pot as good as another? Or do they have special electrical characteristics that have to match? I suppose they have to put out a certain range of voltages. But even if you have a different pot, outputting different voltages, that would then just be a matter of recalibration.
I don't see why you couldn't just buy any pot that physically fits to replace the stuffed one.
Here's some g25 pot specs:
Resistance 10.0KΩ
Power (Watts) 0.5W, 1/2W
Resistive Material Carbon
Rotation 300°
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My understanding is that it is the rotation that is different - 70° and also the shaft is non standard size/shape.
PS. I'd probably take Bird's 'advice' and get Fanatec pedals. Except for the price.
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My understanding is that it is the rotation that is different - 70° and also the shaft is non standard size/shape.
PS. I'd probably take Bird's 'advice' and get Fanatec pedals. Except for the price.
If you order a wheel too, you get a free set of pedals, hehe.
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My understanding is that it is the rotation that is different - 70° and also the shaft is non standard size/shape.
PS. I'd probably take Bird's 'advice' and get Fanatec pedals. Except for the price.
If you order a wheel too, you get a free set of pedals, hehe.
When I configure a Fanatec Clubsport wheel and pedals it comes to $2399 :D
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GB, what I don't understand is, isn't any pot as good as another? Or do they have special electrical characteristics that have to match? I suppose they have to put out a certain range of voltages. But even if you have a different pot, outputting different voltages, that would then just be a matter of recalibration.
I don't see why you couldn't just buy any pot that physically fits to replace the stuffed one.
Here's some g25 pot specs:
Resistance 10.0KΩ
Power (Watts) 0.5W, 1/2W
Resistive Material Carbon
Rotation 300°
This is a picture of the G27 POT:
(http://www.thesimshop.com/images/G25_POT.jpg)
This is the closest thing I can find for sale:
(https://www.adafruit.com/images/1200x900/562-00.jpg)
I don't know, but it looks a fair bit different to me? Maybe if I took it apart and substituted the spindle, etc. it would be the same. Anyway, I've got a clutch and throttle swap planned either this arvo or tomorrow so hopefully that will fix things for a while.
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nice work GB... I've looked at pulling it apart to get at them, but balked at the effort...
I was fortunate the drowning in board cleaner worked for me....
Thankfully my new pedals the pots are heaps easier to get to now
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I can't see the second pic, it seems to give us a "403 forbidden" code.
But that g27 pot seems like you can take it apart...now the problem part is usually the resistor strip on the pcb (it can get corroded/eroded by use - you should use the throttle pedal much less!!!). So if you can swap the pcb with the other, it could work.
Or you may end up with two useless pots. :D
Putting them together nice and tight can be a challenge.
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I took it completely apart the other day and gave it a good clean out then put it back together. worked well for a couple of days.
Anyways, I've swapped the clutch and throttle pedals over, including the foot plate spacers and the springs - that way I didn't have to take apart the pot's. It has worked a treat so far. No spiking in the hour or so test run I had earlier and both throttle and clutch working fine.
I'm sure the clutch will be spiking at full depression, but with the clutch it's pretty much a button except for the starts, but the first 10% of clutch travel isn't that vital.
Lets just hope the old clutch/current throttle pot doesn't start playing up!
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I took it completely apart the other day and gave it a good clean out then put it back together. worked well for a couple of days.
Anyways, I've swapped the clutch and throttle pedals over, including the foot plate spacers and the springs - that way I didn't have to take apart the pot's. It has worked a treat so far. No spiking in the hour or so test run I had earlier and both throttle and clutch working fine.
I'm sure the clutch will be spiking at full depression, but with the clutch it's pretty much a button except for the starts, but the first 10% of clutch travel isn't that vital.
Lets just hope the old clutch/current throttle pot doesn't start playing up!
It's only $499 for a set of Fanatec Clubsport v3 pedals :D
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I took it completely apart the other day and gave it a good clean out then put it back together. worked well for a couple of days.
Anyways, I've swapped the clutch and throttle pedals over, including the foot plate spacers and the springs - that way I didn't have to take apart the pot's. It has worked a treat so far. No spiking in the hour or so test run I had earlier and both throttle and clutch working fine.
I'm sure the clutch will be spiking at full depression, but with the clutch it's pretty much a button except for the starts, but the first 10% of clutch travel isn't that vital.
Lets just hope the old clutch/current throttle pot doesn't start playing up!
It sounds like it worked well. The clutch pot should obviously have had a lot less wear and tear than the throttle pot.
It's pretty lousy that Logitech won't provide replacement pots.
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I will need to save up, or heaven forbid, sell more of my 'goodies' in the shed! Actually, I am quite comfortable with my setup, although I do like the steel spoked rim :)... but I did have a sense of "wheel envy" for a little while.
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I'm thinking, just for the hell of it, of some kind of points scoring system for fun tonight, where you get more points the more you finish ahead of someone. I.e. it is an advantage to finish with a bigger margin than only just beating someone.
Kind of like 100 pts for the winner, and then the rest get a percentage of that depending on the gaps to the winner, so second place might get 99 pts for a narrow loss, or 80 pts for a more decent margin. I'll invent something for S&G.
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I'd like to receive points when I spin! That way I can win :D
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I'm quite excited. I just bought a V-slicer online. As a result I haven't had a chance to do any decent practice.
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My internet's out... The server's up though, for Barbagallo. I'll see if it comes back, otherwise the server will be stuck on Barbagallo.
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My internet's out... The server's up though, for Barbagallo. I'll see if it comes back, otherwise the server will be stuck on Barbagallo.
Ok If you want I can run it on my servers though I was just in one and my pc crashed out again. I can at least run the servers if needed.
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there are a few that can offer their services :)
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Seeing a few are already in that server I will do it from there just restart it with the regular xgn pass and run it with qualy at 8:30 starting at Brands first as some guys are in practicing already.
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Given how much the RUF tires squeal I thought this might be using from Lord Kunos:
100% means "whatever we think the good default is".. which currently is around half way slip between 0 and the slip that gives you the grip peak.
So this slider goes from:
0% = a screaming tyre is a tyre
100% = a screaming tyre is an happy tyre
200% = a screaming tyre is a sliding tyre
Choose your poison.
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Server is up XGN.com.au Tuesday race nite (Marty's)
If we use Wally's server then racing will just be on Barbs all nite if Wally doesnt get back online.
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Thanks for running in Wally's absence Marty. I enjoyed the races. 2 tracks worth of stress in the RUF was enough however!!
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Yep, thanks Marty. My internet only just came back. Pain in the a$$. Two Tuesday's without racing... I'm getting the shakes :)
It's a pity, because I was looking forward to these RUFs.
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Bummer Wally :( Always the way isn't it!!
Thanks Marty for hosting...
Wicked cars, shame I way overdrive it...
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Bad luck Wally, shame you missed it was a fun night of racing. My pc managed to crash once in each qualy session but it survived each race, I will be away a few day but will roll back to win 8 as this is beyond a joke with the NV drivers for me in win 10.
Results For the nite, only a small turn out of 8 but was some good racing.
Race Wins To Guybrush and Phil with the overall podium to Marty, Mael and Guybrush.
http://52.62.71.102:50041/championship
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I'm quite excited. I just bought a V-slicer online. As a result I haven't had a chance to do any decent practice.
so coleslaw for the next few days at your house! oh and don't forget the band-aids. Did you get a set o steak knives with it?
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http://52.62.71.102:50041/championship
Cool... I wondered how that worked.
Congrats on all the winners and most excellent racing... was close and very fun :)
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Even though I came last on the night I did spend most of Race 1 & 2 hounding Rolz which was great fun. I just wish he'd cracked under the pressure!!
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Yep, good fun last night.
I quite enjoyed the RWD and nursing the throttle ever so slightly out of corners. If ever there was a car to teach good throttle control, this is the one. Just make sure to turn TC off. I left it on for the first race and off for the second - leaving it off was much more fun although you still need to be careful with it on.
I tried the AWD for a couple of laps last week and didn't like it. Very understeery on throttle out of slower corners.
Thanks for administering Martian!
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Very understeery on throttle out of slower corners.
If ever there was an understatement ;D
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I didn't like the RUF when it first came out, but I learned to love it by entering corners more slowly and focussing on the exit. I cured understeer in the AWD with less rear camber, so the front bit a bit more.